The Most Worst Nightmare Concerning Audi G28 Be Realized
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How to Replace an audi key fobs G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located on the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49), then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The sensor is located at the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends a signal to ECU pin T55/49 using the grey wire. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate fuel and boost. It also sends an indicator to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor audi keyless go is used to correlate with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw a P00160 code which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and possibly indicating the chain is stretched or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It's a bit tricky to test as there are various pins on the connector and they all have different functions. The best way to do it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is functional, it should read about 1000 ohms. If you're experiencing issues with this sensor, look for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, i experienced a big cut in power like the engine is running out of gas or injectors are not firing at all. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs, three were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole, and when i start the engine without sparks, the 3 with gazoline jump right out. The fourth one remains closed. I inspected the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 I get 0ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it runs fine with the G28 plugged in. However, the intermittent misfire problem continues to occur at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c even when i unplug it. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge in the cockpit is showing 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.0 if i crank up the engine.
I'm not certain what to do, as i think i've pretty much completely ruled out all other possibilities. But i am afraid i might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and they both work in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. Test them out to do - just put your DMM in resistance mode and take measurements between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's side up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU of our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines must be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft to determine timing of fuel injectors, etc. In order to do this it utilizes a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these go badly, you will see codes on the diagnostic scanner which could cause engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox and a gearbox which shifts faster than normal, or an unfire when in gear. It is possible that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. They're cheap and easy to find particularly if they're an Bosch unit like ours. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a variety of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission in your audi keyless go; www.longisland.com, since it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's engine is spinning. When this sensor fails, it can cause problems for the transmission, as well as the rest of the car's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends an electrical signal through a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU uses this signal to regulate the amount of fuel and boost, and also timig. It also relays it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can determine if the sensor is in failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. Additionally, you can examine the continuity between pins T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]) and between pin T6a/1 and pin T26a/12. You should see the resistance to be around 1000 ohms between these two points. This is a standard part across the Audi 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU so good parts could be found in wrecking yards.
In this video Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located on the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49), then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed SensorThe sensor is located at the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends a signal to ECU pin T55/49 using the grey wire. The ECU utilizes this information to regulate fuel and boost. It also sends an indicator to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor audi keyless go is used to correlate with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw a P00160 code which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and possibly indicating the chain is stretched or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It's a bit tricky to test as there are various pins on the connector and they all have different functions. The best way to do it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. When the sensor is functional, it should read about 1000 ohms. If you're experiencing issues with this sensor, look for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, i experienced a big cut in power like the engine is running out of gas or injectors are not firing at all. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs, three were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. I put a piece of tissue over each injector hole, and when i start the engine without sparks, the 3 with gazoline jump right out. The fourth one remains closed. I inspected the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 I get 0ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it runs fine with the G28 plugged in. However, the intermittent misfire problem continues to occur at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c even when i unplug it. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge in the cockpit is showing 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.0 if i crank up the engine.
I'm not certain what to do, as i think i've pretty much completely ruled out all other possibilities. But i am afraid i might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and they both work in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a salvage yard or in a local parts store. Test them out to do - just put your DMM in resistance mode and take measurements between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's side up) and 2 (2nd from left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU of our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines must be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft to determine timing of fuel injectors, etc. In order to do this it utilizes a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these go badly, you will see codes on the diagnostic scanner which could cause engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor can cause an inaccurate speed counter for the gearbox and a gearbox which shifts faster than normal, or an unfire when in gear. It is possible that your sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these signs. They're cheap and easy to find particularly if they're an Bosch unit like ours. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a variety of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission in your audi keyless go; www.longisland.com, since it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's engine is spinning. When this sensor fails, it can cause problems for the transmission, as well as the rest of the car's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. It sends an electrical signal through a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU uses this signal to regulate the amount of fuel and boost, and also timig. It also relays it to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster. You can determine if the sensor is in failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. Additionally, you can examine the continuity between pins T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]) and between pin T6a/1 and pin T26a/12. You should see the resistance to be around 1000 ohms between these two points. This is a standard part across the Audi 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU so good parts could be found in wrecking yards.
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